Take it directly to a professional framer, not a ‘discount shop’ where they have a new framer every three months, but one that has been around for some time.  (Get referrals from a reputable art gallery if you are not sure.)  The reason being that someone not professional will put dings into the artwork, and thus diminish the value greatly. 

     No matter whom you have frame it, they would actually be responsible for any damage and replacement, once you both note on the receipt ‘artwork left in perfect condition’, which you should have written on all framing receipts anyway.  That is, of course, as long as it really is left in perfect condition. 

We make triple certain we ship it out with no dings, so if you see a problem with the art after un-rolling it at the framers -ding wise or otherwise- notify us immediately to make a claim.

Have them use ‘Acid free’ materials.  You should not have to request it, as professionals would only use them as a matter of course, but ask to make sure.

      Matting:  Use approx. 3" width around a 11"x14" image, 3.5" on a 16"x20, 4" on a 24"x30, and so on.  Each should have another 1" added to the bottom to make the piece look balanced.  (If not, the bottom mat actually looks smaller that the sides).

     Use only acid free mats.

There are two further thoughts of framing it here, mounting wise. 
One, strictly museum mounted, and the other wet (or dry) mounted.

Museum Framing:  This entails using acid free hinge tape, or the like.  The only drawback with this method is that you usually see a slight 'wavy' effect as it hangs on the wall.  You could try it and see if this works for you.  If it does not, take it back for ‘wet (or dry) mounting’, as explained. It could take a year or two for the effect to take place.
 

     [ Prime-Foam-X is produced by Primex Plastics Corporation. With all its similarities to Fome-Cor, it has some significant differences. The outer paper facing is thicker, whiter, and glossier. The formation of the foam bubbles and their higher density in this board allow for better retention of shape and minimize damage. This board is said to have "memory" because slight indentations tend to heal themselves. Consequently, in die-cutting the edges do not crimp or seal as they do with Fome-Cor. It's said it cuts well in all directions. It is manufactured in the same sizes as Fome-Cor and is also available in an acid-free version.
     This board is now produced with a UV inhibitor to reduce the possibility of ultraviolet light breaking down the foam. There are two thicknesses- 0.125 inch, and 0.210 inch, which is almost 1/4-inch thick and is thus often referred to as nominal. (Primex prefers to use thousandths of an inch rather than fractions in referring to thickness.) The surface pH is between 6.5 and 7.0 for the regular surface and 7.5 for the acid-free surface. Prime-Foam-X is a little more expensive than Fome-Cor.]

This will help keep it from the slight buckling regular acid free board does over time, such as Bainbridge 3/16th.

Dry mounting: 
This entails using a hot press or hot vacuum mounting system. 
The down side is that heat is known to be damaging to some degree for the dyes in color photographs.  Black and white are fine.

Feel free to take this advice sheet to them and have them call me with questions or other suggestions if they have any.   The framer might help you decide which way to go here, but it’s pretty much up to you.  If they come up with better suggestions I'd like to hear back on them..

I know whichever way you choose to frame it that  this artwork will give you years of enjoyment.

God bless, and thanks for your patronage.

Michael Seewald